In a private room known as The Connoisseur Room at Collezione New York, a rare wine and spirits boutique on Madison Avenue, a collection of rare single malt Scotch whiskies is on display. The bottles, some over half a century old, are part of an extraordinary find in a warehouse in Italy. This article delves into the story behind these whiskies, exploring the Italian connection to single malt Scotch and the legendary trattoria that once housed them.
The Italian connection to single malt Scotch is a fascinating one. From the late 19th century until the 1960s, single malt whiskies were barely a commercial proposition. Distilleries rarely bottled their own whiskies, instead selling casks to blending houses or independent bottlers. It wasn't until the early 1990s that single malts became a viable market. However, Italy was an exception. Forward-thinking importers like Silvano Samaroli, Nadi Fiori, Ernesto Mainardi, and Armando Giovinetti planted the seeds of the single malt revolution in the 1960s and 1970s.
Stefano Pileggi, the owner of Collezione New York, is a native of Calabria and a passionate whisky collector. He befriended and learned from the original importers, and it was through his connections that he discovered the Cantarelli collection. The Cantarelli trattoria, or I Cantarelli, opened in 1953 in the small town of Samboseto in lower Parma. It was the first trattoria to earn two Michelin stars for its simple, provincial cuisine and unfussy atmosphere.
The trattoria also had a formidable wine selection and a deep, well-curated selection of Scotch single malts. After closing in 1982, the remaining stocks of whisky went into storage and remained forgotten for over three decades. Pileggi, who travels to Italy regularly, discovered the collection in 2026 and was captivated by its condition and the rare whiskies it contained.
The Cantarelli collection includes bottles from the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s, with some distilled at 57% ABV. Pileggi marvels at the bottles' condition, describing them as 'new old stock'. He highlights three favorites: a 12-year-old Clynelish, a 15-year-old Port Ellen, and a Springbank aged in sherry casks. The most historical bottle is a Rosebank from the 1970s, imported into Italy by Edoardo Giaccone for his establishment, Whiskyteca Edward & Edward.
Pileggi values the personal interactions that come with the Collezione store, and he's proud to have established a connection with the legendary Cantarelli trattoria. He believes that the importers and merchants of the time knew the future of single malts and were buying pallets of whisky with a vision. The Cantarelli collection is a testament to the passion and expertise of these individuals, and Pileggi is thrilled to bring it back to life, even if the trattoria itself no longer exists.
The article concludes by emphasizing the rarity and historical significance of the Cantarelli collection, and Pileggi's commitment to preserving the legacy of Italian whisky culture.
